Day 5 Penitentes to Horcones to Confluencia Dec 13

Woke what what I call a bluebird day. It is sunny and clear. It is cool being at 9000 ft but pleasant.
We had a group supper last night and each told our "life story". John is a commercial plumber from Northern Ireland, Shao is from Malaysia but works in Singapore is a stockbroker, Niv from Israel, Herman our guide studied medicine in Buenos Aries but bagged it to be a mountain guide.  All are experienced climbers. Most have done Kilimanjaro and either Everest or Annapurna base camp. No super stars climbing Everest or K2.  Of course the elite wouldn't do a guided and supported trek. We are recreational climbers.  It seems all of us are basically overachievers by nature. Otherwise why would we take on such a foolish quest?

Herman is teaching me Spanish. This is very different Spanish from what is spoken in Denver.  Even in Argentina there are 5 dialects. I will do my best to learn since I think it is respectful to try to use the native language.

We head out in an hour. The mules left very early and should be at our camp hours before we arrive. We are good if we get to camp early enough we may find spaces in the large permanent tent that has beds. My fingers as crossed. I could do with one less day sleeping on rocks.
No internet for a few days I am told.
So we begin.

Long trek up to Confluencia through a river valley.  It was a rugged but okay pathway.  Crossing over a bridge on the river was very steep but we were well rested and it was okay.

We arrived at Confluencia to the enthusiastic welcome of Victoria.  She has a snack ready for us.  We were so hungry.  The tents were set up, we got settled and then it was time for a very nice supper.


This camp has a flush toilet!  Yeah.  We rejoiced at this simple amenity for it would be our last for many days.

 Confluencia

 Jamie resting

 Niv and Shao setting up the tent

 Janie, Herman and John

 John

 Our Dining Room Tent

Crossing the bridge used for the film "Seven Years in Tibet"

Jamie at Laguna De Horcones - the beginning of our journey

Day 4 Mendoza to Penitentes

Didn't wake up until 9am. We were really konked. We had to get our gear together to be picked up. Herman our guide and Carlos our driver were very helpful telling us the Spanish names of the things we passed. We headed back toward Chile.  Just outside of Mendoza were the grapevines and some wineries. There were oil wells interspersed in the surrounding fields. Wine and petroleum are the major industries along with tourism for Argentina.  It wss like S. California. As we climbed up into the mountains, the country was very much like Colorado. In fact they called one area Colorado.  One could trace the path of the river by the line of poplars or in Spanish  - alamo.

After a three hour drive we arrived in Penitentes which is a ski resort. Of course it is closed for the summer. Now it serves as a staging area for Aconcagua climbers.

We organized our gear again. One pile was going on the mules to Confluencia,  the other to an upper camp at Mulas. At Mulas, I will hire a porter to carry my gear . ..lazy spoiled woman that I am :).

I spent a lot of time talking with Niv from Isreal. Interesting to learn about his life. He just finished his mandatory military service of 5 years and was taking a year off to tour the world. He has a degree as an electrical engineer and will pursue his career when he is finished in 7 months.

Tomorrow will be our first true day of trekking.  I am anxious to begin.  The stopover in Penitentes is for acclimatization for our friends from sea level. For Jamie and me, the 9k altitude is no big deal.  The trek will be easy - only 3 to 3 1\2 hours.  The day after is seven hours , so easing in is a good way to prep for the daunting task ahead.

 Packing up. John from N. Ireland and Jamie

 Jamie

 Nev weighing his gear so the loiad is balanced on the mules

 Ski resort poster

 Our hotel

Lake along the journey

Day 3 Mendoza Argentina

Today was prep day.  We met with our guide at breakfast to arrange for our permits and have our gear inspected. We also found out we had three more people joining our trek.   I thought it would just be two like in past treks but it is what it is. One is from Northern Ireland, one from Singapore and one from Israel. All men expect me. Only one of the others has climbed before, so I should be okay.
Our gear check was flawless. Our guide, Herman, was impressed that we were so well kitted. I wanted to say "This isn't our first rodeo" but didn't know if it would translate well.  Living at higher altitude has adapted us to hazards of sun and dehydration so we have adapted behaviors that work on the mountain.  No guarantee that we won't have mountain sickness but it helps.
Everything is sorted and packed based on when we will need access. Our expedition (Aka very, very cold weather) gear is packed for mules to carry part of the way.   All in all the stuff only weights 50 lbs each.  Of course our support group carries tents and food in addition.

After getting all sorted out, Jamie and I walked around town seeing the sights. We visited many parks ad just looked around. Since we don't want more things to carry or store while trekking, we didn't shop but took mental notes and got cards for the places to visit when we transit back.

At lunch, we sat in the plaza at an outdoor cafe.  We ate and chilled.  We watch people, listened to street musicians and enjoyed our food. We are partaking of  strictly Argentinian food. Might as well experience the local color.

I had it in my mind that I needed a belt. My trekking pants without a base layer kept creeping down.   I needed a fabric belt because leather can cause sweating and changing. We went to about 25 stores with no luck. Leather is big I. Argentina.  So I decided to double my extra boot laces as a belt. It'll do.

We probably hoofed 8 to 10 miles. Never stop conditioning.  The problem is pavement seemed harder on the feet than twenty miles on the trail. Foot sore, we sought out a restaurant recommended by Trip Advisor.  Ceibo was extraordinary. Had another early dinner. Restaurants don't even open till 7 pm.  We were one of the few at 7:15.

The day was hot. About 82F as we head to the first day of summer.

In our suite getting ready for bed but I am going to go out yo the park across from the hotel and check out the stars.  Different stars in the sky in the Southern Hemisphere. I know we will see it every night on the mountain but I can't wait. I love the evening sky.

Tomorrow I will get up early to run. My other bucket list is to "Run" the World.  I may not make but will enjoy trying.

December 11, 2014

Day 2 Part b Mendoza

What a scary flight over the Andes. You would think I would be used to it flying into Denver so often.  This was truly dry mouth, gripping the seat arms turbulence.  We were so happy to be on terra firma.  Customs was endless with few people to serve a whole plane load. I suppose since they don't get too many flights, they can't have that many available employees. I have been in the same spot as an employer myself.  And what the heck, we were a captive audience. You either wait or you don't get into the country.

Reps from our guide company met us and whisked us into Mendoza.  Our hotel is nice. We have a suite with a kitchen and a nice big bathroom. Three nights of relative comfort before camping.  Tomorrow we stay at Los Penitentes s we near our trek trailhead.

We got our orientation and then had the night to ourselves. We started with a trip to the very nice Carrefour grocery store. It is a French based store very like Target Superstore.  Mainly we got water since we need to drink 4 liters per day.  Hydrate is our mantra.

We were early bird diners by Argentinian standards we ate at 7:45 pm :). A big meal ( trying to bulk up since we're burn so many calories trekking). Savored a lovely Malbec, then headed off to crash.

I fell asleep only to be awakened by an open air party bus that circled our block. Finally at 1pm it was quiet. Didn't wake until my alarm went off.  Another day awaits.

Day 2 Santiago

We slept well on the plane. In business class we had full decline beds which makes it much nicer. I was startle awake by the flight attendant serving breakfast just an hour before landing in Santiago.
Since we had a stopover for 6 hours, we decided to take a bus into the city. Great transportation system.  First a bus and then a subway which took about 30 minutes. Riding the bus, I was trying not to be the judgmental ugly American. The litter along the roadsides was unreal.  I thought, oh dear, this is going to be a horrible city. How wrong I was. Santiago proper was clean and beautiful. The people were generally so well dressed that I felt like a total slob in my T-shirt, trekking pants and hiking boots.
We strolled the city for a few hours viewing the momuments, parks and shops.  The architecture is varies with a mix of Spanish colonial and various types of contemporary.  When we return in a few weeks, I would like to do an architecture walking tour.
I bugged Jamie to return to the airport early because I didn't want to miss our flight. We got back quickly, breezed through customs and security so we had over an our until we left. We had not choice but to partake in cerveza and empanadas :) It is all part of the experience.

The other life benchmark was that this was the farthest south I had ever been.  I know I have bored most of my friends and family with my bucket list ggoal of being within all the latitude and longitude bands.

Day 1 December 9. 2014

December 9 2014

The day has finally come. Jamie my son and I are on our way to Argentina to climb Mt. Aconcagua.

I began to assemble my gear nearly a month in advance. I didn't want to forget anything nor did I want to over pack since there is a limit on what can be carried on a back up a high and steep mountain.  To be clear, it will not be my back. I have hired a private porter which I think is the privilege of one in their sixties. Jamie will be macho and will carry his own gear.

Last night, I made my finally pare down. I don't care if I am grubby and stinky.  That is just how it is on the mountain. so I have two sets of clothes and my ascent expedition gear and that is all. I was heartened to hear we do get a shower at base camp (a mere 14k).  I probably won't wash my hair because it is too cold and no way to dry it. We'll see.

In my past climbs, when one reaches 15 or 16 k, it is just too cold to remove clothing so you stew in what you are wearing. The good news (?) is that it is too cold and dry to sweat much. That is at least my personal experience.

First stop or rather stopover on our adventure is Houston. Just a few hours. But, as Coloradans, it is always painful to be in Texas - our nemesis state.  We plan on going to the International Lounge and get licquored up to ease the pain.  We won't be drinking in the days ahead. That is for sure. Altitude and alcohol do not mix.

I now sit in the plane from Denver to Houston with feelings of excitement and trepidation.  I am fit, I think. Training for and running the NYC Marathon just a month ago has gotten me into good condition. Even if as my son says, I am a lazy runner, I did the distance and finished.

I am probably a lazy climber too. I have no desire to set a speed record. I want to make it up and down and enjoy the sights on the way.  On Kilimanjaro, he was always several hours ahead of me. That is why I have my own porter and guide. Who needs that performance anxiety?  Not me!

I started my day doing last minute stuff.  I visited my wonderful chiropractor, Dr. Robert Ebeling, and had a back adjustment and water massage. I feel so good.  I did last minute work stuff, bills and mail. I had been away from home working at Suncadia for the prior ten days. what a scramble.  Jamie worked in the morning and I picked him up and we went to the ParkNRide. I am so cheap, we took the bus to the airport. I only pay $4.50. How can I pass up such a deal?

I have begun to read Blind Descent about a climber who had to descend Everest after going blind at the summit. Inspirational or desperatinal ... hmmm.